2013-06-18T02:12:38-04:00 Christine Babington Smith http://www.mydaily.co.uk/author/index.php?author=christine-babington-smith Copyright 2008, HuffingtonPost.com, Inc. HuffingtonPost Blogger Feed for Christine Babington Smith Good old fashioned elbow grease. tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.3377911 2013-06-04T04:48:32-04:00 2013-06-04T06:25:43-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/

If you are thinking about buying a new swimsuit or bikini but are not sure what suits you - this post aims to steer you in the right direction with some handy advice. The key to finding the perfect swimsuit is to emphasize your assets and draw attention away from problem areas.

Top swimwear trends 2013

Monochrome black and white stripes are huge this summer
Animal print
Neon
Crochet
Fringe

Now how to wear these trends according to your shape.

Curvy

Wrap style swimsuits and ruching are brilliant for curvy girls. Tankinis and monokinis can also work for you plus they are a bit sexier as they show a bit of skin. If you wear a bikini make sure the top offers support, sweetheart necklines and halter-necks are a great choice.

Avoid

Tiny triangle tops.

Bottom heavy

Draw attention away from your lower half by emphasizing your bust and shoulders with halter-necks. High-cut legs are also flattering as they help elongate your legs.

Avoid

Boy cut bikini bottoms and shorts.

Small breasts

Choose a bikini top or swimsuit with ruffles to fill you out, horizontal stripes also help give the illusion of bigger breasts. Don't rule out an underwired bikini top - it can provide definition and shape.

Avoid

Bandeau tops will leave you looking flat.

Top Heavy

Underwire is essential to give you the necessary support. Halter necks are great as they offer support and a hint of cleavage. If you go for a strappy swimsuit make sure it has wide straps otherwise it will be uncomfortable.

Avoid

Teeny weeny triangle bikinis - no support.

Got a tummy?

Draw attention away from the waist area - halter necks are great for this. If you choose a one piece - ruching helps give the illusion of curves. Go for high-cut legs - they are flattering if you have bigger thighs.

Avoid

Shiny swimsuits like the plague - they won't do you any favours as they highlight lumpy bits. Tankinis are also a no-no.

Athletic build?

This body type is known as the inverted triangle - you need to choose a style that gives you curves. First off draw attention away from your upper half by focusing on your hips. Go for bikini bottoms with a belt, gold hoop details or beading. Opt for bold prints.

Avoid

Halter-necks - as they emphasise your shoulders, bra-straps are a better option for you.

A quick word on patterns

Black is slimming but boring - geometric patterns and prints are also good for breaking things up and diverting attention away from shape. Avoid horizontal stripes if you want to create a slimmer silhouette.

Where to shop?

The photo features swimwear by Dutch label LingaDore; they have a great selection of bathing suits in different styles to suit most body shapes. The current collection also has some fabulous prints from Aztec to leopard print. You can buy LingaDore at online fashion store www.glam-net.com.

Enjoy your holidays!]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.3222180 2013-05-06T08:20:58-04:00 2013-05-06T10:10:08-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/ Punk: Chaos to Couture runs from May 9 - August 14, with the inaugural Benefit Gala ball tonight. According to the New York Times this is causing guests and stylists a huge wardrobe dilemma, mainly because rich women are repelled by punk fashion and don't want to look like Poly Styrene, Jordan and Siouxsie Sioux. Actually I'm looking forward to seeing how normally sleekly put together celebrities deal with the rebellious D.I.Y elements of punk fashion - cue shredded t-shirts and bin liners.

The exhibition itself examines punk's impact on high fashion from the movement's birth in the 1970s through to its continuing influence today. Original punk garments will be juxtaposed with recent fashion to illustrate how haute couture and ready-to-wear have borrowed punk's visual symbols; focusing on the relationship between 'do-it-yourself' and the couture concept of 'made-to-measure'. OMG this is a real flash back to a course I did on youth subculture at college - but don't worry I won't bore you to death with talk about hegemony and subcultures. Anyway, back to the exhibition, it's going to be an immersive multisensory experience set to punk music and videos - so expect lots of sneering but hopefully no spitting.

There are seven galleries, each with their own designated punk 'heroes' from legendary New York music club CBGB, represented by The Ramones, Blondie and Patti Smith to Malcolm McClaren and Vivienne Westwood and their Seditionaries boutique in London's Kings Road. Another gallery examines the visual language and symbols of punk - embodied by punk icon Jordan. Do-it-yourself, punk's enduring contribution to high fashion, will be explored in the four final galleries: D.I.Y. Hardware, focusing on couture's use of studs, spikes, chains, zippers, padlocks, safety pins, and razor blades, with Sid Vicious as its icon; D.I.Y. Bricolage, highlighting the impact of punk's ethos of customization on high fashion, including the use of recycled materials from rubbish and consumer culture; D.I.Y. Graffiti and Agitprop, exploring punk's tradition of provocation and confrontation through images and text exemplified by The Clash; and D.I.Y. Destroy, examining the effect of punk's rip-it-to-shreds spirit, typified by Johnny Rotten, via torn and shredded garments associated with deconstructionism.

Designers featured in the exhibition include Christopher Bailey (Burberry), Hussein Chalayan, Francisco Costa (Calvin Klein), Christophe Decarnin (Balmain), Ann Demeulemeester, Dior, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana (Dolce and Gabbana), John Galliano, Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga), Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren (Viktor & Rolf), Christopher Kane, Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel), Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, Alexander McQueen, Franco Moschino and Rossella Jardini (Moschino), Kate and Laura Mulleavy (Rodarte), Miuccia Prada, Gareth Pugh, and Hedi Slimane (Saint Laurent).

There is also an accompanying book entitled Punk: Chaos to Couture with a preface by John Lydon (Johnny Rotten) containing lots of photographs of original punks and high fashion; but going back to my college days, I do remember reading an influential book called Subculture: The Meaning of Style by Dick Hebdige - worth a look if you do want to read about youth subculture, its resistance to hegemony and all that!]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.3228581 2013-05-06T08:20:58-04:00 2013-05-07T07:54:55-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/ Punk: Chaos to Couture runs from May 9 - August 14, with the inaugural Benefit Gala ball tonight. According to the New York Times this is causing guests and stylists a huge wardrobe dilemma, mainly because rich women are repelled by punk fashion and don't want to look like Poly Styrene, Jordan and Siouxsie Sioux. Actually I'm looking forward to seeing how normally sleekly put together celebrities deal with the rebellious D.I.Y elements of punk fashion - cue shredded t-shirts and bin liners.

The exhibition itself examines punk's impact on high fashion from the movement's birth in the 1970s through to its continuing influence today. Original punk garments will be juxtaposed with recent fashion to illustrate how haute couture and ready-to-wear have borrowed punk's visual symbols; focusing on the relationship between 'do-it-yourself' and the couture concept of 'made-to-measure'. OMG this is a real flash back to a course I did on youth subculture at college - but don't worry I won't bore you to death with talk about hegemony and subcultures. Anyway, back to the exhibition, it's going to be an immersive multisensory experience set to punk music and videos - so expect lots of sneering but hopefully no spitting.

There are seven galleries, each with their own designated punk 'heroes' from legendary New York music club CBGB, represented by The Ramones, Blondie and Patti Smith to Malcolm McClaren and Vivienne Westwood and their Seditionaries boutique in London's Kings Road. Another gallery examines the visual language and symbols of punk - embodied by punk icon Jordan. Do-it-yourself, punk's enduring contribution to high fashion, will be explored in the four final galleries: D.I.Y. Hardware, focusing on couture's use of studs, spikes, chains, zippers, padlocks, safety pins, and razor blades, with Sid Vicious as its icon; D.I.Y. Bricolage, highlighting the impact of punk's ethos of customization on high fashion, including the use of recycled materials from rubbish and consumer culture; D.I.Y. Graffiti and Agitprop, exploring punk's tradition of provocation and confrontation through images and text exemplified by The Clash; and D.I.Y. Destroy, examining the effect of punk's rip-it-to-shreds spirit, typified by Johnny Rotten, via torn and shredded garments associated with deconstructionism.

Designers featured in the exhibition include Christopher Bailey (Burberry), Hussein Chalayan, Francisco Costa (Calvin Klein), Christophe Decarnin (Balmain), Ann Demeulemeester, Dior, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana (Dolce and Gabbana), John Galliano, Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga), Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren (Viktor & Rolf), Christopher Kane, Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel), Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, Alexander McQueen, Franco Moschino and Rossella Jardini (Moschino), Kate and Laura Mulleavy (Rodarte), Miuccia Prada, Gareth Pugh, and Hedi Slimane (Saint Laurent).

There is also an accompanying book entitled Punk: Chaos to Couture with a preface by John Lydon (Johnny Rotten) containing lots of photographs of original punks and high fashion; but going back to my college days, I do remember reading an influential book called Subculture: The Meaning of Style by Dick Hebdige - worth a look if you do want to read about youth subculture, its resistance to hegemony and all that!]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.2931840 2013-03-22T09:20:30-04:00 2013-05-22T05:12:01-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/


The average American woman owns about 20 pairs of shoes, but if you are fanatical about footwear - this post is for you. The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York is mounting an exhibition entitled Shoe Obsession, and is a must for shoe addicts.

Shoe Obsession features shoes from women with incredible collections. Jewellery designer Lynn Ban owns 20 pairs of heels by Azzedine Alaïa. Baroness Monica von Neumann, who appeared in the 2011 documentary God Save My Shoes, has contributed exquisite examples by a wealth of luxury brands from Gucci to Hermès. Daphne Guinness--one of today's most influential style icons--has also lent a selection of her heels, including extreme examples by Alexander McQueen and Nina Ricci.

Shoe Obsession explores the extreme, lavish and imaginative styles that have made shoes central to fashion; to the extent that designer shoes have surpassed 'It' bags as the most coveted fashion accessories. Indeed, the demand for luxury footwear has spurred US department stores to expand their shoe departments, particularly as gross profit margins can be as high as 50% according to an article in Bloomberg Business Week last year.

Fashion blogs have fed this fever, from dedicated shoe blogs Shoelust and Sea of Shoes to street style blogs Jak and Jil and The Sartorialist; bloggers focus their lenses on originality and pick out colourful details and prints. "Shoe designers, sensing this, have put more emphasis on the heel as an expression of individuality. There has been a move away from platforms to single sole sandals and court shoes with contrast heels in Perspex, electric blues and geometric patterns" says British shoe designer Sarah Lambourne of Bourne.

Sex and the City brought Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin and Manolo Blahnik into the popular consciousness, and women coveted the contents of Carrie Bradshaw's closet. The Shoe Obsession exhibition even includes a pair of Manolo Blahnik's rhinestone-buckled, silver D'Orsay shoes--a version of which was used in a 2003 Sex and the City episode titled "A Woman's Right to Shoes." Christian Louboutin's apprenticeship in French burlesque costume design is represented by his cherry red, fiercely spiked Pigalle pumps from fall 2012, amongst other iconic styles.

In addition to these established labels there are also exhibits by rising stars within shoe design: Pierre Hardy, Nicholas Kirkwood, Alexandre Birman and Charlotte Olympia Dellal. Aperlai, founded three years ago by Alessandra Lanvin, is another designer shoe label fast gaining a reputation as a brand to watch. The youngest newcomer invited to exhibit is Charline De Luca, a 25 year old Italian who launched her first shoe collection in 2011; known for her structural heel design she could be defined as a shoe architect rather than shoe designer.

The exhibition also covers the major fashion houses from Givenchy to Prada's extraordinary 'flame' shoes of spring 2012. The extreme is showcased by Noritaka Tatehana's Lady Pointe shoes, at 18 inches tall they were worn by Lady Gaga in a recent performance.

For those that can't make it to New York, there is always the accompanying book published by Yale University Press.

Bourne shoes and clothing are stocked by www.glam-net.com

Image features the "Zaha" shoe, courtesy of Charline De Luca.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.2722885 2013-02-22T19:00:00-05:00 2013-04-24T05:12:01-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/


The Milan Fashion Week schedule is an impressive list of powerhouse labels from Armani, Prada, Fendi, Cavalli, Versace and Gucci. Italian luxury brands also appear impervious to the economic crisis thanks to demand from wealthy consumers in the Far East. So why is the Italian fashion establishment worried? The current crisis is one of new talent; the last great explosion of Italian designers was in the late 1970s, when Muccia Prada took over at Prada and Giorgio Armani, Versace, Dolce and Gabbana started their empires. Since then it's hard to think of a new name to add to the list.

Alarm bells have started to ring, the most obvious one being Tom Ford's decision to show in London rather than Milan or Paris; this in turn is attracting more American buyers to London. Paris is faced with a similar problem to Milan but they have brought in new designers to rejuvenate their famous marques, with Raf Simons at Dior and Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent Paris.

London Fashion Week positions itself as an incubator of new talent and has seen success stories like Christopher Kane, 2007 New Designer of the Year, and Erdem, winner of the Fashion Fringe award in 2005. Last year's Fashion Fringe winner Haizhen Wang is receiving practical support for the next four seasons and mentoring as and when he needs it. London is full of initiatives to help creative talent; Fashion Fringe, NEWGEN and Fashion Scout provide an important launch platform for new designers.

The UK also has the Duchess of Cambridge and, despite some fashion world snobbery, she can bring massive exposure for a designer. American fashion has Michelle Obama; Jason Wu being the most celebrated beneficiary of her patronage so far. The US also has programs to nurture new talent: Jason Wu was a finalist in the 2008 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and the CFDA has recently launched the Fashion Incubator which aims to support the next generation of fashion designers.

That leaves Milan Fashion Week where? There are new designers working in Italy, Donatella Versace worked with Christopher Kane on Versus and is now developing a team of emerging designers. Haizhen Wang worked for Max Mara but when it came to branching out with his own label he headed for London. The problem appears to be a lack of support: new talent usually gets pushed to the back of the schedule where it clashes with Paris Fashion Week. By that time the buyers, fashion editors, bloggers and top models have already left and are tweeting from their Eurostar train or are already in the French capital.

Last year Roberto Cavalli kicked up a fuss about being the only anchor label on the last day of the shows; this year the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the body responsible for promoting Italian fashion, has shaken the schedule up a bit. Russian designer Sergei Grinko has moved up the rankings; whilst No.21, whose creative director Alessandro Dell'Acqua also heads up the design team at luxury knitwear label Les Copains, finds itself showing on the opening day. Another new label, Bee Queen, is also scheduled to open Milan Fashion Week but appears to be clashing with the Gucci show which is a shame. However, NUDE and Next Generation, both of which promote new talent, once again find themselves relegated to the final day which also happens to be the first day of Paris Fashion Week.


Image from Haizhen Wang's fall/winter 2013-14 collection. Photographer Nyiwa K 'The Abstract Portrait'.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.2742690 2013-02-22T19:00:00-05:00 2013-04-24T05:12:01-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/


The Milan Fashion Week schedule is an impressive list of powerhouse labels from Armani, Prada, Fendi, Cavalli, Versace and Gucci. Italian luxury brands also appear impervious to the economic crisis thanks to demand from wealthy consumers in the Far East. So why is the Italian fashion establishment worried? The current crisis is one of new talent; the last great explosion of Italian designers was in the late 1970s, when Muccia Prada took over at Prada and Giorgio Armani, Versace, Dolce and Gabbana started their empires. Since then it's hard to think of a new name to add to the list.

Alarm bells have started to ring, the most obvious one being Tom Ford's decision to show in London rather than Milan or Paris; this in turn is attracting more American buyers to London. Paris is faced with a similar problem to Milan but they have brought in new designers to rejuvenate their famous marques, with Raf Simons at Dior and Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent Paris.

London Fashion Week positions itself as an incubator of new talent and has seen success stories like Christopher Kane, 2007 New Designer of the Year, and Erdem, winner of the Fashion Fringe award in 2005. Last year's Fashion Fringe winner Haizhen Wang is receiving practical support for the next four seasons and mentoring as and when he needs it. London is full of initiatives to help creative talent; Fashion Fringe, NEWGEN and Fashion Scout provide an important launch platform for new designers.

The UK also has the Duchess of Cambridge and, despite some fashion world snobbery, she can bring massive exposure for a designer. American fashion has Michelle Obama; Jason Wu being the most celebrated beneficiary of her patronage so far. The US also has programs to nurture new talent: Jason Wu was a finalist in the 2008 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and the CFDA has recently launched the Fashion Incubator which aims to support the next generation of fashion designers.

That leaves Milan Fashion Week where? There are new designers working in Italy, Donatella Versace worked with Christopher Kane on Versus and is now developing a team of emerging designers. Haizhen Wang worked for Max Mara but when it came to branching out with his own label he headed for London. The problem appears to be a lack of support: new talent usually gets pushed to the back of the schedule where it clashes with Paris Fashion Week. By that time the buyers, fashion editors, bloggers and top models have already left and are tweeting from their Eurostar train or are already in the French capital.

Last year Roberto Cavalli kicked up a fuss about being the only anchor label on the last day of the shows; this year the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the body responsible for promoting Italian fashion, has shaken the schedule up a bit. Russian designer Sergei Grinko has moved up the rankings; whilst No.21, whose creative director Alessandro Dell'Acqua also heads up the design team at luxury knitwear label Les Copains, finds itself showing on the opening day. Another new label, Bee Queen, is also scheduled to open Milan Fashion Week but appears to be clashing with the Gucci show which is a shame. However, NUDE and Next Generation, both of which promote new talent, once again find themselves relegated to the final day which also happens to be the first day of Paris Fashion Week.


Image from Haizhen Wang's fall/winter 2013-14 collection. Photographer Nyiwa K 'The Abstract Portrait'.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.2494310 2013-01-17T07:21:48-05:00 2013-03-19T05:12:01-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/ Girls, with its multi-tasking writer, director and star Lena Dunham winning best actress at The Golden Globes this week. The show follows the lives of four recently graduated twenty-something women as they make their way in New York, but unlike its big sister Sex and the City, Girls tries to set its story in reality. Whilst well-heeled (we're talking Manolos) Carrie, Samantha, Charlotte and Miranda had wardrobes and lifestyles most women can only fantasize about; Hannah, Marnie, Jessa and Shoshanna live in outer boroughs and their clothes reflect their modest incomes.

This got me thinking about my own experiences as a twenty-something living in a dingy house with three girlfriends on the outer edge of London's zone two. Just graduated we quickly realised that although we had degrees we were not going to walk straight into a management job - so we started at the bottom as assistants. London is not a cheap city and after I paid the rent I had £300 a month to live on; clothes were a luxury and this was a PP era (Pre-Primark).

One of my housemates was an unpaid intern for a top fashion stylist, the other a post-grad journalism student, and the third worked as a trainee buyer for a high-street chain. This was a godsend for us cash-strapped fashionistas as she got to go to sample sales! Every six months we would hand over £10 each and she would grab whatever she could, bring it home and divvy out the spoils. This happy arrangement came to an abrupt end when she got the sack for chronic unpunctuality. Meanwhile when the journalism student decided to edit her huge collection of stylish thrift shop clothes - the rest of us descended on it like a pack of hungry wolves.

Despite our meagre wages (non-existent in the case of the assistant fashion stylist) we had a good time. Saturday nights started with a ritual of tuna pasta bake followed by what was essentially a two hour party getting ready with a bottle of wine on the go; we would drink before going out as we couldn't afford the London bar prices. One memorable evening at a swanky London club involved being invited to the VIP lounge by a pop star and his entourage; that glamorous evening ended with us hitting reality with a bump on the night bus home to zone two.

Somehow we found our way through the insecurities of our twenties and are now comfortable with who we are. The assistant buyer now works in fashion PR and is married to a banker, the journalist graduated and works for a local paper in Surrey, and the assistant stylist is now a successful (and paid) fashion stylist working in London. Whereas me, I got seduced by the first dotcom bubble and when that imploded, took a plane and headed to Milan.

So eventually we all moved on, and yet we have stayed in touch. I wonder how many friendships forged by people in their twenties survive, not many I should think. All I can say is thank goodness for Facebook!

The new season of Girls starts Monday 14 January on SKY ATLANTIC HD.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2211382 2012-11-26T19:00:00-05:00 2013-01-26T05:12:01-05:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/
"Each of these designs have a beautiful story" says Valentino "The atelier crafted each so diligently by hand, taking hours, sometimes days to complete. The details are incredibly intricate, though outside the runway shows and events, the dresses have rarely been seen."

Valentino's couture clients have included princesses, first ladies and Hollywood actresses - an exhibition highlight is the vintage Valentino dress Julia Roberts wore in 2001 to pick up her Academy Award for Best Actress. There are also Jackie Onassis's wedding dress from Valentino's 1968 White Collection and Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece's pearl-encrusted ivory silk wedding gown, which is made from ten different types of lace. Some of the exhibits have come from the couture catwalk and red carpet or were commissioned by private clients but much of it has never been seen outside the Valentino atelier.

The exhibition features photographs from Valentino's private collection and a behind-the-scenes tour of the Valentino atelier, with specially made films demonstrating the skill and craftsmanship that go into creating couture gowns. The atelier tour also explores the technique of budellini, strips of silk ribbon used to accentuate a woman's hourglass shape, which is as much a signature of Valentino as the hallmark 'Valentino Red'.

The highlight of the exhibition is the Catwalk experience; visitors walk a 60 metre runway surrounded by an 'audience' dressed in an array of Valentino couture. The clothes are grouped by theme, from black and white to red, and trace the house from its beginnings in 1950s Rome through to pieces from the current house of Valentino; now creatively led by the designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli since the retirement of the eponymous Valentino.

Another room is dedicated to Valentino's current passion, the Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum, an online museum that you can download onto your computer - and in fact I have just started playing with it now, it's interactive and very cool.

Couture has suffered a decline in the past century with the number of haute couture members dwindling from over a hundred in the post-war period to now just 18. The profitability of prêt-à-porter and the expense of creating a couture collection have contributed to its decline, but the kudos and aura it brings a design house is priceless.

"Valentino: Master of Couture" shines a spotlight on the hundreds of hours of skilled artistry that goes into creating a couture gown and the exhibition is equally a tribute to the petites mains of the atelier team as it is to the master couturier Valentino.

The exhibition will be held at Somerset House in London and runs from 29 November 2012 to the 3 March 2013. If you want to visit the Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum, click the link.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2190776 2012-11-26T19:00:00-05:00 2013-01-26T05:12:01-05:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/
"Each of these designs have a beautiful story" says Valentino "The atelier crafted each so diligently by hand, taking hours, sometimes days to complete. The details are incredibly intricate, though outside the runway shows and events, the dresses have rarely been seen."

Valentino's couture clients have included princesses, first ladies and Hollywood actresses - an exhibition highlight is the vintage Valentino dress Julia Roberts wore in 2001 to pick up her Academy Award for Best Actress. There are also Jackie Onassis's wedding dress from Valentino's 1968 White Collection and Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece's pearl-encrusted ivory silk wedding gown, which is made from ten different types of lace. Some of the exhibits have come from the couture catwalk and red carpet or were commissioned by private clients but much of it has never been seen outside the Valentino atelier.

The exhibition features photographs from Valentino's private collection and a behind-the-scenes tour of the Valentino atelier, with specially made films demonstrating the skill and craftsmanship that go into creating couture gowns. The atelier tour also explores the technique of budellini, strips of silk ribbon used to accentuate a woman's hourglass shape, which is as much a signature of Valentino as the hallmark 'Valentino Red'.

The highlight of the exhibition is the Catwalk experience; visitors walk a 60 metre runway surrounded by an 'audience' dressed in an array of Valentino couture. The clothes are grouped by theme, from black and white to red, and trace the house from its beginnings in 1950s Rome through to pieces from the current house of Valentino; now creatively led by the designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli since the retirement of the eponymous Valentino.

Another room is dedicated to Valentino's current passion, the Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum, an online museum that you can download onto your computer - and in fact I have just started playing with it now, it's interactive and very cool.

Couture has suffered a decline in the past century with the number of haute couture members dwindling from over a hundred in the post-war period to now just 18. The profitability of prêt-à-porter and the expense of creating a couture collection have contributed to its decline, but the kudos and aura it brings a design house is priceless.

"Valentino: Master of Couture" shines a spotlight on the hundreds of hours of skilled artistry that goes into creating a couture gown and the exhibition is equally a tribute to the petites mains of the atelier team as it is to the master couturier Valentino.

The exhibition will be held at Somerset House in London and runs from 29 November 2012 to the 3 March 2013. If you want to visit the Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum, click the link.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2008085 2012-10-24T06:05:53-04:00 2012-12-24T05:12:02-05:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/
Designer perfume brands package mass market luxury, whereas true luxury labels have a story to tell. A recent trip to Avery, a tiny shop in the heart of London's Mayfair, introduced me to some niche perfumes and the concept of Art Perfume.

Eight and Bob is a scent with a wonderful history; it was originally developed as a gift by French aristocrat Albert Fouquet for John F. Kennedy, eight of his friends and 'Bob'. Albert died in a car accident in 1939 whilst the formula was hidden during the war by his loyal butler, Philippe, only to resurface decades later thanks to the butler's family. The perfume is so exclusive, using rare plants from the Andes, that only a limited number of bottles are produced each year.

Boadicea the Victorious is a niche British perfume maker; with collections entitled Power, Spirit, Courage and Vigour the perfumer prides itself on its individuality. The perfume and its distinctive Celtic pewter style bottle won the Wallpaper Magazine Best Perfume Design Award in 2010.

I love Silk by Andrea Maack Parfums, a Reykjavik based fragrance house founded in 2009 by the visual artist Andrea Maack. Their perfumes were originally created for museum exhibitions to translate visual art into an olfactory experience. The concept behind Silk is to enhance the feeling of wearing a perfume like a silk foulard, and it was this fragrance that first led me to Avery.

As discerning consumers search for something new - the 'noses' behind the best-selling designer perfumes are taking centre stage. Francis Kurkdjian is a superstar 'nose' of the perfume world, an artist and master perfumer; he has even tried to recreate Marie Antoinette's perfume. Kurkdjian has created fragrances for Dior, Acqua Di Parma, Guerlain, Giorgio Armani and Lancome amongst notable others. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Paris was established in 2009 and new launches this year include Oud, spicy and woody, and Amyris, floral and woody notes. For the ultimate in luxury Maison Francis Kurkdjian will create a bespoke scent for individual clientele, prices are on request but you won't get any change from 8,000 euros.

10 Corso Como in Milan, the concept boutique store owned by Carla Sozzani (sister of Franca the Vogue Italia editor-in-chief), is a good place to look for niche luxury scents. There are no familiar mass market designer label perfumes or celebrity endorsed products (or bargain bins where the latter often end up post-Christmas launch). Instead the perfumes are a list of new discoveries from L'Artisan Parfumeur, By Kilian, Byredo, Diptyque, Heeley, Juliette has a Gun and Serge Lutens.

Niche is the new luxury: from perfumes, accessories to clothing labels. Whilst there will always be consumers who aspire to the status of a big luxury brand to validate their success, there are those customers who want to stand out from crowd, who don't want to surrender their personality to a logo.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1854803 2012-09-06T19:00:00-04:00 2012-11-06T05:12:01-05:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/



Leather is going to be huge:

Fendi, Celine, Givenchy, Christian Dior, Gareth Pugh, Versace, Michael Kors all featured leather heavily in their fall/winter collections. The one item of clothing I really would invest in this season is a knee-length pencil skirt, whilst the classic biker jacket is another key wardrobe staple. Leather is also set to make an appearance as detailing either as pockets, collars, lapels, sleeves; and don't forget accessories - leather gloves anyone!

Burgundy red is the new black:

Well deep oxblood red to be precise. The colour featured prominently in the Milan and New York 2012-13 Ready-to-wear runway shows - my top pick has to be a high gloss burgundy PVC raincoat. Other colours to watch for are blue combined with black, purple, white contrasted with black and finally olive-green.

Cinched in waists:

It's official the classic sheath dress is not complete without a waist belt. The sophisticated 1940-50s silhouette makes reappearance this year, but with waists accentuated with skinny belts or wide statement belts. Knee-length pencil skirts are back again and so is the midi-skirt as at Roland Mouret, Saint Laurent, DSquared, Christian Dior, Versace and Valentino. Kate Beckinsale carried off the look to perfection on a promotional tour for Total Recall in London this August.

Military:

Coats and jackets with epaulettes and statement brass buttons are another fall/winter 2012-13 trend to watch for. Whilst military greens like olive and khaki were popular at Max Mara and Victoria Beckham. The featured jacket from glam-net.com ticks both the military and leather trend boxes.

Animal prints:

White Milan, a trade show for fashion buyers earlier this year, was full of leopard print and zebra - so expect to see plenty of spots and stripes in the stores this fall. Snakeskin print is another hot trend to look out for - designers are using it for clothing as well as accessories. A pair of snakeskin print faux leather skinny pants by Laurel is at the top of my shopping list this season.

Brocades and flower power:

The Dolce and Gabbana runway show went all out for gilt brocade, cherubs and large floral prints, lending their sultry black-clad Sicilian widow an ornate romanticism reminiscent of Sicily's Baroque churches. The floral trend is morphing from spring/summer into the fall by way of oversize prints, darker hues, rich fabrics and embroidery.

Equestrian fashion:

This trend has been around a while now, since at least 2005 when Kate Moss donned her Hunter's at Glastonbury, and it shows no sign of letting up. Givenchy has even given the equestrian trend a sexy reboot with a fetishized version, although it has little in common with the country look espoused by the Duchess of Cambridge. Nevertheless, jodhpurs, riding boots and plaid jackets with elbow patches are still going strong in 2012.

Last time I did one of these lists I got moaned at for not telling readers where to shop, so I have posted up some ideas with links on my regular blog page.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1666460 2012-07-11T17:52:44-04:00 2012-09-10T05:12:03-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/ Scoop International Show. Launched in 2011 it's an industry fashion fair for boutique labels held at the Saatchi Gallery in London's Chelsea.

Scoop prides itself on being fashion forward and nurturing creativity. This year it promoted Belgian designers, hoping to find the next Dries Van Noten, Raf Simons (Dior's new creative director) and Martin Margiela - all Belgian home-grown talent.

Featured designers included Antwerp-based Nathalie Vleeschouwer, 'queen of the jersey dress'; she is known for her signature prints and vibrant colour palette. Essentiel is another hotly tipped label from Antwerp, designer Esfandiar Eghtessadi debuted a quirky youthful collection - think geek-chic. The city also boasts design duo Vicky Vinck and Katrien Strijbol, of acclaimed label Just In Case; their Spring 2012 collection is soft and romantic with exquisite embroidered detail.

Brussels was represented by Rue Blanche, a chic and understated womens-wear label; meanwhile mother and daughter design team, Mooiloop, focus on bright prints and colourful feminine dresses. Did you know in Belgium a tank top is called a Marcel? Well you do now, and the Fabuleux Marcel De Bruxelles is just that, a label that specialises in basic tees and tanks.

The Belgians formed only a fraction of the Scoop show, with over 200 different brands exhibiting. Pieces that caught my eye in this edition were tailored dresses by Goat, a British brand apparently worn by Kirsten Dunst and Gwyneth Paltrow. I particularly liked a coat dress with placket fastening which was the epitome of sophisticated glamour.

In contrast the pared down simplicity of the Scandinavians featured strongly at the show, with designers from Sweden and Norway. Swedish designer label By Malina had some gorgeously romantic hand-printed silk maxi-dresses.

Accessories were bold with the collar necklace still a firm fashion favourite.  Here is my edit from the show:
I fell in love with a skull cuff by Nicholas King, an emerging fashion favourite who has worked for John Galliano and Donna Karan.  He specialises in creating bold hand-made resin jewelry, his directional pieces have appeared in Vogue, Vanity Fair and Harpers Bazaar.

Nocturne, a London-based label stocked by glam-net.com, had some stunning collar necklaces;
a statement necklace by a Roman design team, Luxury Fashion, also caught my eye.
L.A. designer Gillian Julius's cuffs looked amazing - chunky yet feminine glamour.  She told me her new collection features rose gold tones which is going down a storm with fashionistas in the Middle-East.  She will be sending me an image and I will post it up pronto, soon as I have it!

Last but not least I came across Hanky Panky, a New York label who create fun, sexy lingerie. With a strong celebrity following which includes Beyonce, Rihanna, Angelina Jolie and Cameron Diaz; the label claims to produce the world's most comfortable thong. The team kindly gave me a sample - I will road test it tomorrow and give you an update!

If you want to see the images of my picks from the show visit my blog www.glamyou.co.uk.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1630095 2012-06-27T08:06:03-04:00 2012-08-27T05:12:06-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/
The Daphne Guinness Collection includes couture items carefully selected from Daphne's own wardrobe, and features pieces by Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Balenciaga, Christopher Kane, Christian Louboutin and Gareth Pugh. It's a fantastic chance for fashionistas to get their hands on rare couture pieces - most of which were acquired directly by Daphne from the designers themselves. Although there are over a hundred lots to bid on, the star of the show is a stunning sculptural metallic silver mini-dress, made for Daphne by Alexander McQueen in 2008 and is estimated to fetch £20,000. Daphne has chosen items that reflect her unique style and it is clear that she is parting with pieces that have history and personal importance attached. Proceeds from the sale will go to support the Isabella Blow Foundation and preserve the Isabella Blow collection which Daphne Guinness bought in 2010 after the death of her friend.



It is a generous act to split up your own collection in order to preserve that of a friend; and indeed there are ambitious plans to exhibit Isabella Blow's collection online while it will be housed physically at Central Saint Martins as a resource for design students. The largest portion of the Blow collection, consisting of well over ninety outfits, pays homage to one of Isabella's greatest discoveries: the late Alexander McQueen. Also included are examples of John Galliano's early work, hats by Philip Treacy, a number of Manolo Blahnik shoes, and items by Hussein Chalayan and Giles Deacon. The collection beautifully expresses the passion, vision and tastes of the inimitable Issie.

Issie's talent lay in recognising talent in its raw state. She supported those she admired unconditionally, and left behind a permanent legacy in the designers she nurtured and in the clothes that she left behind. Many of the most cutting edge designers of her generation owe their big break to her, encouraged and shaped by Isabella's totally original and generous personality. Isabella inspired McQueen, acting as his ambassador - marketing, placing, selling and wearing his clothes. Their relationship went even deeper, with McQueen commenting after Isabella's death, 'what I had with Isabella was completely disassociated from fashion, beyond fashion''.

The Daphne Guinness Collection sale will take place at Christie's South Kensington branch on 27 June. Proceeds from the auction will support bursaries for aspiring art and fashion students, and to fund research in the fields of depression and mental health.

http://Www.isabellablowfoundation.com/
http://www.christies.com/The-Daphne-Guinness-Collection-14750.aspx

If you want to see what is in the Daphne Guinness auction I've uploaded some photos from the preview event to Glamnet's flickr page.

Pic of Daphne here courtesy of glam-net.com.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1498963 2012-05-08T05:32:28-04:00 2012-07-08T05:12:08-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/
Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations is the title of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute spring 2012 exhibition; launching this week with the annual Met Gala Ball. Featuring 90 designs and 30 accessories by Elsa Schiaparelli spanning the 1920s - 1950s and Miuccia Prada covering the 1980s to the present; the exhibition explores how the two designers subvert our notions of taste, beauty and glamour.

Elsa Schiaparelli, whose fashion house closed in 1954, has been eclipsed in our collective memory by her rival Coco Chanel who dismissed her as 'that Italian artist who makes clothes'. In 2012, though, Schiaparelli is enjoying a popular revival with the help of the Met exhibition and 'The Hunger Games'. One of the biggest hits of the year so far with record takings at the box office, the film heavily references her 1930s haute couture in its Capitol Citizens' costumes. This belated recognition is all good news for Diego della Valle, the chief executive of Tod's, who bought the Schiaparelli brand back in 2007 with plans to relaunch it with a perfume and accessories line. He took the opportunity this week, whilst all fashion eyes are on New York for the exhibition and Gala Benefit, to introduce French actress and model Farida Khelfa as his muse; with a new designer to be announced in September according to the New York Times.

It's somewhat ironic that Schiaparelli's business failed to survive the years of post-war austerity, yet is being relaunched amidst a period of European austerity budgets and economic uncertainty - let's hope this time round the House of Schiaparelli achieves longevity. Although it's clear the designer's influence never really went away - so many conventions of modern fashion were started by Schiaparelli: she was one of the first designers to produce ready-to-wear collections and stage runway shows using music and tall, thin models. Schiaparelli also created the wedge heel; graphic pattern knitwear featuring surrealist trompe l'oeil imagery; the signature colour 'hot pink'; even Jean Paul Gaultier's torso shaped perfume bottle is a modern homage to Schiaparelli's 'Shocking' perfume bottle from the 1930s.

Schiaparelli provoked and scandalised 1930s society - I think if Schiaparelli was still alive she would find a natural affinity with Lady Gaga and Miuccia Prada; her shoe hat and tear dress were equally shocking in their time as Nicola Formichetti's meat dress is today.

Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations runs from May 10 - August 19, 2012 at The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The institute houses a historical collection of thirty-five thousand costumes and accessories and is the home of the Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, one of the world's foremost fashion libraries. The annual Gala Benefit is the main source of funding for the institute and enjoys heavy support from the fashion industry.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1444970 2012-04-23T05:57:30-04:00 2012-06-23T05:12:02-04:00

Christine Babington Smith http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-babington-smith/
One such manufacturer Miele, the premium domestic appliances brand, was showcasing its Smart Grid ready products. The majority of household consumption is dominated by domestic appliances: washing machines, dishwashers and tumble dryers. Manufacturers have responded with A+++ rated appliances, but the real future of electricity consumption lies with the Smart Grid (SG). By 2020, Miele estimates that 80% of households will be fitted with a smart electricity meter that allows two-way communication between the utility provider and the individual home. What does this mean for householders? Smart grid enabled domestic appliances that can be scheduled to run when energy costs are cheaper.

Energy efficiency and carbon emissions are no longer only a concern for the environmental fringe; as utility bills increase and the UK Government introduces the new 'Green Deal' to empower householders to upgrade the efficiency of their homes, it is time for consumers to re- think how they use energy. These Smart Grid appliances also have implications for homes fitted with Solar Photovoltaic panels. The main limitation of Solar PV systems is that they generate energy during the day, but the energy cannot be stored; so panels are producing power when people are at work. Of course any unused energy is sold back the grid, but surely the whole point of producing your own energy is to be self-sufficient rather than relying on buying it from a large energy company.

SMA, a leading German solar technology company, has designed an energy management system to overcome this problem. The Sunny Home Manager acts as a transmitter from the PV panel to SG ready appliances. So appliances will start automatically when the PV panels are generating enough energy to run them. Miele has developed a complementary gateway which manages the demand side of things, the gateway tells the transmitter which Miele machines are in SG Ready mode, which programmes are selected and the energy forecast for the relevant cycles.

How does this work in practice? Let's say a washing machine and dishwasher are both set to complete their cycle by 19.00 h at the latest. According to the weather forecast, the sun is expected to shine from lunch onwards, allowing the dishwasher to be switched on at 13.00 h followed by the washing machine two hours later. This particular example takes into account that the house's solar array is not able to provide enough power to run both machines simultaneously.

The solar PV industry sees the potential of this new technology, "Our customers would prefer to use their own clean energy rather than sell it to the grid. The Miele gateway is a great solution and will be the first of many domestic appliance companies to develop new ways for customers to have more control over their energy use" says Tyrone Cowland, Managing Director of Renewable Energy Control www.rec-nrg.com.

So being 'Smart' is definitely the way forward: now your smart phone can be connected to your smart appliances through an app, giving you even greater control. No doubt other manufacturers will quickly follow suit, we'll see what new launches are in store at Milan Design Week 2013.]]>