Backstage beauty: Emilio Pucci Autumn/Winter 2012

Natasha Poly: Emilio Pucci Autumn/Winter 2012. Backstage beautyPucci girl: Natasha Poly on the catwalk. Photo:Getty

"Finally, a smoky lip with a beige eye!" Mac makeup artist Lisa Butler laughed backstage at Emilio Pucci. "Normally in Milan it's the other way round."

The beauty look for the Pucci girls this season was wonderfully simple (i.e. easy for us rookies to copy), using only five key products. "I want the girls to look like natural beauties," Lisa explained. (Girls including the likes of Natasha Poly and Lily Donaldson, FYI.)

First, a touch of Mac Strobe cream on the cheeks for a natural, dewy finish, followed by a touch of mascara for those with fair lashes. A little eye liner was also smudged under the lower lashes for extra definition, but was barely visible.

The brow arches were filled in to create a flat shape, not pointed, using whichever brow pencil best matched each model's natural hair colour.

But it was the lip that was the focal point, which was created using a DIY technique. Lisa mixed lipbalm with the tiniest amount of Mac Lipmix in black (a fine pigment powder) to create a plum-coloured subtly dark lip. "Not gothic," she insisted. "It's young and fresh."

Hair meanwhile also took a distinctly youthful approach, with stylist Paul Hanlon giving the models halo-esque Heidi braids. "It's classic but modern," he explained. "And it conveys that ultimate Pucci femininity."

Pre-matched extensions were added into the backs of the girls' hair for added length, which were then ironed straight to blend in with their natural locks - while the prosthetic braid was pinned around the crown.

"It's beautiful, like she's peering out from underneath," he added.

Paul smoothed tresses down and added oomph with John Freida Luxurious Volume Mousse, before setting with L'Oreal Elnett hairspray.

More from the Emilio Pucci collection below: