IN A NUTSHELL: Zac Posen gave us unabashed femininity with a Tokyo twist. His classic cinched and fishtailed silhouettes were peppered with origami-like folds and pleats, exaggerated kimono details, and intricate brocades and embroidery - realised in a opulent palette of scarlet, burnished gold, plum, racing green and midnight blue.
BEG, BORROW OR STEAL: We loved the 'lunching suits' (clearly not in the Pret-A-Manger sandwich sense of the word), which comprised flippy ladylike pencil skirts and peplum jackets tailored to an inch of their lives. Naturally the evening gowns were strong, and standouts included a 'Tokyo red' kimono wrapped fishtail dress and the finale, a midnight jacquard blue bustier gown - worn by Ms Coco Rocha.
F-ROW: Dita Von Teese, Leigh Lezark, Josephine de la Baum.
VERDICT: The origami-like detail and strong Tokyo influences made this collection striking in its own right, but the mood and sophisticated techniques also called to mind Galliano's Japanese collections, under his own label and for Dior couture. And almost a year after Galliano left his post at Dior it did make us wonder - is Posen the man for the job?
See highlights from Posen's collection below: